Angelini Osteria.The great Italian chef Gino Angelini has fulfilled a lifetime dream to open his own casual osteria that serves simple, hearty, home-style food — from a home rife with genius cooking genes. The classy, clattery urban café is lively, fun — and very kid-friendly. (The three-course child’s menu is a fine way to introduce the squirts to the pleasures and pace of fine dining.) Angelini may have downshifted his culinary ambitions, but his abilities are entrenched, and there’s unmistakable haute in the homiest braised oxtails or codfish stew. 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 297-0070. Beer and wine. Valet parking. Lunch Tues.–Sat. noon–2:30 p.m.; dinner Tues.–Sun. 5–11:30 p.m. AE, MC, V. Entrées $16–$30. Italian. MH $$¦ ä
Campanile. The basic premise of Urban Rustic cuisine is the perfection of Mediterranean peasant dishes, often in ways that may be incomprehensible to the Mediterranean peasants in question. Campanile’s Mark Peel reinterprets this sunny cuisine by using really good ingredients, assembling them with chefly skill, and illuminating the spirit of each dish as if from within. A niçoise salad, a fish soup, a grilled steak under Peel’s direction is like a Velázquez painting of a horse as opposed to the horse itself. 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 938-1447. Lunch Mon.–Fri., dinner Mon.–Sat. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, CB, DC, MC, V. Entrées $25–$38. California Italian. JG $$$¦ Ü‹ ¤
Location Info
Map
Ciudad
445 S. Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90071
Category: Bars and Clubs
Region: Downtown
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The House. A hard-used, still-handsome Craftsman home has been transformed into an industry canteen-cum-fine-dining room. Chef Scooter Kanfer, the local food world’s equivalent of a high-end script polisher — she spent the last decade perfecting dishes in many other chefs’ just-opened kitchens — here serves her own seasonal remakes of Americana, including spoon bread, macaroni and cheese, the lettuce-wedge salad, steak, pan-fried chicken and even cocoa. Check out the $30 Sunday-night prix-fixe dinner. 5750 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 462-4687. Lunch Tues.–Fri. noon–2 p.m.; dinner Tues.–Sat. 6–10:30 p.m., Sun. 5–9 p.m. Beer and wine. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Entrées $16–$30. California American. MH $ ‹
Jar. Chef Suzanne Tracht’s interpretation of the contemporary American steakhouse means many sides and sauces and the occasional Asian twist (braised pork belly with Savoy cabbage, duck fried rice, sautéed pea tendrils, tamarind sauce). But meat, braised or dry-aged and grilled, is the real focus: flavorful and tender New York steak with the bone in, magnificent pot roast. The decor is tasteful, the art wry, the service totally professional and the noise level off the charts. 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-6566. Lunch Mon.–Fri. 11:30–2:30 p.m.; dinner Sun.–Mon. 5:30–10 p.m., Tues.–Thurs. to 10:30 p.m., Fri.–Sat. to 11 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, D, MC, V. Entrées $19–$29. California American.MH $$
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Marouch. If you wanted to imagine you were in Beirut, you could stop by this place a few times a day, easy — midmornings for a piece of baklava and a thimbleful of Turkish coffee, lunch for a kebab and a bottle of Lebanese beer, late afternoons for a bowl of dense lentil soup. At dinner, the combination meze includes essentially everything on the left-hand side of the menu: hummus; the thickened-yogurt cheese labneh; veal and bulgur-wheat kibbeh; the toasted-bread salad fattoush; and the grilled makanek sausages. To begin with. 4905 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 662-9325. Open Tues.–Sun. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Beer and wine. Lot parking. AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V. Entrées $8.50-$11.50. Middle Eastern/Lebanese.JG $ *
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