Eatin’ ’em for Breakfast

ROSCOE'S

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Bruddah's Hawaiian Foods

1033 W. Gardena Blvd.
Gardena, CA 90247

Category: Restaurant > Hawaiian

Region: South Bay

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John O' Groats

10516 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: West L.A.

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Marston's

151 E. Walnut St.
Pasadena, CA 91103

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Pasadena and vicinity

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Roscoe's Chicken N' Waffles

1514 N. Gower St.
Los Angeles, CA 90028

Category: Restaurant > Soul Food

Region: Hollywood

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Yung Ho Restaurant

533 W. Valley Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel

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More About

• Yung Ho
• Chinatown
• Anne Fishbein
• Main Dish Recipes
• Eating Out

Drawing weekend crowds that spill out onto the sidewalk, Roscoe’s is the Carnegie Deli of L.A.’s R&B scene. The most impressive dish is something called Stymie’s Choice, a daunting mountain of fried chicken livers sluiced in gravy, swamped in grits and garnished with a couple of eggs. Still, the basic currency at Roscoe’s is the chicken — a pleasant enough bird deep-fried in oil — and waffles: big, round jobs that look and taste a little like Eggos on steroids, surmounted by an egg-size daub of whipped butter. There are chicken-and-waffle combinations of every description: white meat or dark, smothered in onion gravy or left alone, served with grits and biscuits or with nicely seasoned stewed mixed greens. Why chicken and waffles? Do they just happen to coexist on the same plate, allowing for the occasional serendipitous splash of maple syrup on a succulent fried wing? We may never know. 1514 N. Gower St., Hollywood; (323) 466-7453. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals for two, food only, $9–$15. Beer and wine. Takeout. AE, DC, Disc., MC, V.

YUNG HO TOU CHIANG

At Yung Ho, the breakfast protocol is easy. You order some soy milk, then some stuff to go along with the soy milk: flaky buns stuffed with sweet, simmered turnips; steamed buns filled with spiced pork or black mushrooms; crusty fried pies stuffed with pungent messes of sautéed leek tops; small steamed pork dumplings bursting with juice. The sweetish soy milk itself is a resolutely bland, nonexotic substance; when it’s paired with dumplings, however, its flavor opens up, tempering the richness of simmered stuffings and the greasiness of fried ones. The traditional accompaniment to soy milk is a long, twisted, light-as-air cruller, and Yung Ho does them well. For another buck or so, you can get the cruller smeared with a salty paste of pounded meat and wrapped inside a cylinder of sticky rice, simulating the texture of a good sushi roll. 533 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel; (626) 570-0860. Open daily 7 a.m.–6 p.m. Breakfast for two, food only, $5–$10. Beer. Takeout. Lot parking. Cash only.