My Favorite Things, Part 2
Imports and adaptations
Green-corn tamales
Even in the ‘20s, when some Easterners thought of Los Angeles as an Iowa-by-the-Sea, Angelenos vaguely remembered that the area used to belong to Mexico, and there have always been Mexican restaurants here that catered to the American taste. The emblematic dish of these restaurants is probably the No. 2 dinner, the eternal combination platter of chile relleno, enchilada, rice and beans bound together with cinctures of orange cheese. But a green-corn tamale at El Cholo, an Angeleno rite of spring since the days when Bob Hope was actually funny, is a truly wonderful Cal-Mex hybrid, sweet enough for the Midwestern palate, fresh-tasting enough to appeal to the rest of us. 1121 S. Western Ave.; (323) 734-2773.
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