I Dough
An homage to pasta
I had thought these garganelli to be the finest noodles in the world. But Lynn Rossetto Kasper, whose cookbook The Splendid Table is the definitive reference on the cooking of Emilia-Romagna, actually yelled at me when I mentioned the osteria to her a few years ago.
“What is it with Americans and that place?” she barked, her face turning the color of a rather well-made marinara sauce. “It’s okay . . . if you like balsamic vinegar, for that one kind of garganelli, but . . .” Her voice trailed off in a manner I recognized from having nodded politely too many times while new acquaintances overpraised the soba at Mishima, or the sautéed cat’s ears at what is only the third-best Islamic-Chinese place in the Rosemead–San Gabriel area.
“There’s so much more to pasta,” she said.
Just so. And yet . . .
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2012 - Food & Drink
