Monterey Park After Dark
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Heavy Noodling Restaurant
153 E. Garvey Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91755
Category: Restaurant >
Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel
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Victoria Seafood is a small box of a place, in the heart of Chinese Monterey Park, with big glass fish tanks wedged into every cranny: tanks filled with geoduck clams, hundreds of them lolling out of their undersize shells; tanks with dozens of mossy hard-shell crabs, bound and gagged; tanks with big, thick-lipped fish that stare dolefully out into the room like Edward G. Robinson. Later, great platters come piled high with the excellent Chinese squid, dipped in a thin batter of spicy salt, fried to an exquisite crunchiness and served with a garnish of sliced chiles softened in oil. The Cantonese dried-scallop soup is thick, peppery, crowded with shredded root vegetables and crunchy tree-ear fungus, and speckled with chewy bits of dried scallops, which add a sort of pleasant postcoital pungency to the broth. 143 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park; (626) 280-5921. Open daily 11 a.m.--3 p.m. and 5--11 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $24--$30; much more with live seafood. Beer and wine. Lot parking. MC, V.
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