The Clove That Dares Not Speak Its Name

A jug of wine, a bulb of garlic and . . . whither goest thou, my pet?

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Jan 19 2000

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Zankou Chicken

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El Colmao

2328 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90006

Category: Restaurant > Caribbean

Region: Mid-Wilshire/ Hancock Park

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Venice Room

2428 S. Garfield Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91754

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel

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This is what you eat at Zankou: rotisserie-chicken sandwiches, excellent falafel, shawarma carved off the rotating spit and served warm with superbly caramelized edges, sweetly gamy as only properly overcooked lamb can be. The hummus is fine and grainy, and the spit-roasted chickens are superb: golden, crisp-skinned and juicy, with developed chicken flavor, the kind of bird that makes you want to scour the carcass for stray bits of carbonized skin and delicious scraps of flesh. Such chicken really needs no embellishment, although a little bit of Zankou's Armenian garlic sauce -- a fierce, blinding-white paste, the texture of puréed horseradish, that scents your car, sears the back of your throat, and whose powerful aroma can stay in your head (also your car) for days -- couldn't hurt. 5065 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 665-7842; open daily 10 a.m. - midnight. 1415 E. Colorado St., Glendale; (818) 244-2237; open daily 10 a.m. - 11 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $5 - $9. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only.