Remembrance of Meals Past

The best dishes of 1999

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Dec 22 1999

...continued from page 1

Location Info

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Caioti Pizza Cafe

4346 Tujunga Ave.
Studio City, CA 91604

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: San Fernando Valley

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Kagaya

418 E. Second St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Downtown

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Coloradito de pollo. Where many of the other Oaxacan places on the Westside interpret mole as a mandate to serve fairly incidental segments of reheated chicken wallowing in great, sopping plates of sauce, the chicken at El Sazon Oaxaqueño, is fresh, full of juice, tending toward old-bird chewiness rather than dissolving into mush under your fork. The restaurant‘s Oaxacan mole negro is impeccable. But it is the extravagantly hot coloradito de pollo that is El Sazon’s greatest dish, a brick-red sauce that almost sings with roasted chiles, with sauteed spices, with ground, charred bread. Glorious. 12131 Washington Place; (310) 391-4721.

Taco de lomo. A lean bit of pork loin, a couple of warmed tortillas, some chopped onion and a splash of duskily hot red chile from the bar. Of such humble origins are dreams sometimes made. And out of the thousands of things I have tasted this year, the three blistering bites of this taco, from a restaurant, Taqueria Sanchez, that most of us have driven by a hundred times without slowing down, are perhaps the ones I remember most. 4541 Centinela Ave.; (310) 822-8880.