1 W. Olvera St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Category: Restaurant > Mexican
Region: Downtown
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317 S. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90013-1222
Category: Restaurant > Mexican
Region: Downtown
Los Tres Cochinitos
Cecina de res is so good: flat slabs of Mexican dried beef, sliced thin as poker chips and fried until they are black and crisp. Two wide pieces cover nearly an entire plate and bubble like freshly cooked bacon. Each brittle mouthful -- you don't really cut the stuff so much as snap off pieces with your fork -- shatters into flavors of citrus and garlic and extreme well-doneness, a fugue of carbon and lime. As far as I know, Los Tres Cochinitos -- the Three Little Pigs, don't you know? -- is the only place in the Southland where you can get the crunchy kind of cecina, although El Porton in Montebello serves a pretty good version of the chewy kind. Los Tres' cecina tastes not unlike Thai fried dried beef. Cecina and a good fresh-tomato salsa make something close to the perfect taco. 803 W. Pacific Coast Hwy., Wilmington; (310) 549-0921. Open daily 24 hours. Dinner for two, food only, $8 - $15. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, CB, DC, Disc., MC, V.
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