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Duck, Duck, Goose...

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Zest

The basic unit of Cantonese dining in Los Angeles seems to be the barbecue joint, and it is scarcely possible to drive three blocks on any major thoroughfare in Chinatown or Monterey Park without seeing a window or two filled with the characteristic conga line of impaled pigs, lacquered ducks, simmered intestines and salted chicken. At Zest, a bright, sprawling restaurant near the eastern edge of Alhambra and one of the hundred-odd Hong Kong­style barbecue places in the San Gabriel Valley, the barbecue is first-rate: the meaty barbecued duck complexly gamy, flesh tight and chewy, slightly smoky, touched with a stinging, salty marinade. Its strong taste approaches that of a wild mallard. 2505 Valley Blvd., Alhambra; (626) 281-9968. Open Sun.­Thurs. 8 a.m.­10 p.m. and Fri.­Sat. 8 a.m.­11 p.m. $3.95 lunch specials. Dinner for two, food only, $12­$22, more with live seafood. Beer and wine. Takeout and delivery. Lot parking. MC, V.

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