Heavy Rotation
The big veal keeps on turnin'
El Taurino
My particular favorite tacos come from the truck that spends its weekends parked behind El Taurino, an otherwise undistinguished taco stand on Hoover. A gleaming column of marinated pork al pastor rotates before a simulated shepherd's fire; nubbins of the outside layer of meat caramelize and drip juice. Somebody hacks off a few slivers, slivers you know are meant for your very taco, and rushes to anoint the pork with finely chopped onion, cilantro, and a stupendous, dusky hot sauce that perfectly accents the sweetness of the meat. There are also decent stewed tongue, carnitas and carne asada - about as beside the point as the hot dogs at Tommy's. Truck operates Fri.-Sun. behind 1104 S. Hoover St.; (213) 738-9197. Cash only.
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Pollo A La Brasa Western
764 S. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90005
Category: Restaurant > Barbecue
Region: Mid-Wilshire/ Hancock Park
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Shiraz
211 S. Glendale Ave.
Glendale, CA 91205-1713
Category: Restaurant > Mediterranean
Region: Glendale
El Taurino
1104 S. Hoover St.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
Category: Restaurant > Mexican
Region: Mid-Wilshire/ Hancock Park
Zankou
5065 w. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Category: Restaurant > Armenian
Region: Silver Lake
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Zankou Chicken
This is what you eat at Zankou: rotisserie-chicken sandwiches, excellent falafel, shawarma carved off the rotating spit and served warm with superbly caramelized edges, sweetly gamy as only properly overcooked beef can be. The hummus is fine and grainy, and the spit-roasted chickens are superb: golden, crisp-skinned and juicy, with developed chicken flavor, the kind of bird that makes you want to scour the carcass for stray bits of carbonized skin and delicious scraps of flesh. Such chicken really needs no embellishment, although a little bit of Zankou's Armenian garlic sauce - a fierce, blinding-white paste, the texture of pureed horseradish, which sears the back of your throat, and whose powerful aroma can stay in your head (also your car) for days - couldn't hurt. 5065 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood; (323) 665-7842; open daily 10 a.m.-mid. 1415 E. Colorado St., Glendale; (818) 244-2237; open daily 10 a.m.-11 p.m. (Other locations in Van Nuys, Pasadena and Anaheim.) Dinner for two, food only, $5-$9. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only.
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