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The Pie's the Limit

This is what happens when the world goes to pizzas

Sawtelle Kitchen

A smallish place up the street from the strip malls and office buildings of the Sawtelle-Olympic corridor, Sawtelle Kitchen is tastefully rustic right down to the patinaed walls and the weathered hutches that hold the bowls for cafe au lait. The tables are covered with sheets of copper, and little fiaschi hold homemade chile-flavored olive oil. The salads are pretty much a toss of greens, though the dressings are spiked with exotic things like lavender and balsamic vinegar. Pizzas use flour tortillas instead of crust, two of them glued together with a layer of melted cheese, and topped with delicious things such as prosciutto and mushrooms, duck sausage, or a modified puttanesca made with anchovies, capers and sliced hard-boiled eggs. They're pretty good in spite of themselves: crisp, light and easy to eat. 2024 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A.; (310) 445-9288. Open Mon.-Thurs. 6-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat. till 9:30 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$40. No alcohol; own wine okay. MC, V.

Tombo

Okonomiyaki, sometimes called "Japanese pizza," is perhaps the most popular of Japanese street foods, a thick, circular pancake the size and shape of a small stack of 45s, made from eggs, vegetables, meat and ghost-white batter: crisp on the outside, substantial on the inside, the local equivalent of an Italian frittata or a Spanish tortilla. A lot of the fun in okonomiyaki comes in tending your pancake, patting it flat with a big metal spatula, sliding it to a cooler part of the griddle when you sense it is starting to scorch, glazing its surface with a sticky syrup flavored with Worcestershire sauce. When the mass is done, or at least brown and crisp on the bottom, you cut it into wedges, squirt it with mayonnaise and hot mustard from squeeze bottles, and season it with a thick dusting of powdered seaweed and bonito shavings. (If your pancake looks as if it has been tarred and feathered, it should be about right.) The standard okonomiyaki comes with three added ingredients - say, oysters, kimchi and pork - but you can get more elaborate custom combinations. 2106 Artesia Blvd., Torrance; (310) 324-5190. Open Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m.; Sun. 5-9 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $14-$20. Beer and wine. Lot parking. MC, V.

 

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