Miceli's
If Miceli's is unique - it appears to be the model for the restaurant scene in Lady and the Tramp, the sort of dim, atmospheric pizzeria only Hollywood could have invented - its menu is more or less the one you've seen at 10,000 other pizza restaurants around the country: garlic bread, spaghetti 'n' meatballs, a chilled antipasto salad that's whisked onto your table 30 seconds after you order it, pepperoncini, packaged pepperoni and all. The caesar salad may be nothing like a real caesar, but it's pretty good anyway, torn lettuce drenched in a creamy dressing and studded with fat, garlicky croutons. The sausage scaloppine is fine: thick slices of spicy Italian sausage sauteed with peppers and mushrooms and an intense tomato sauce amped up with garlic and wine. And the pizza - you were expecting maybe barbecued duck with endive? - is pizza, with an underbaked thin crust, tart tomato sauce, and a thick layer of melty cheese that stretches the length of the table. 1646 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood; (323) 466-3438. Open Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Fri. till 12:30 a.m., Sat. 4 p.m.-12:30 a.m., Sun. 3-11:30 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$30. Full bar. Takeout. Validated lot parking. AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V.
4656 Franklin Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90027
Category: Restaurant > Indian
Region: Los Feliz
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407 Bamboo Lane
Los Angeles, CA 90012-1701
Category: Restaurant > Asian
Region: Downtown
Shibucho
Smoking in restaurants has been illegal for a while, but the Beverly Boulevard Shibucho still feels like a smoke-filled room, packed with Japanese businessmen, crowds of expats and students, also the hipper brand of record-company executive, well fortified with alcohol, eating mountains of Dungeness crab, treating the sushi bar like . . . a bar. (Presumably flush with yen, half the bar was sluicing down its sushi with first-rate red Bordeaux the last time I was in.) The snacky kinds of sushi are superb here, salmon-skin hand rolls sharp with pungent gobo root, sushi rolls stuffed with Japanese pickles, sushi of sweet shrimp. And the sashimi is very fine, artful even: streaky slices of fat tuna, rich little clams, cool slabs of ankimo (monkfish liver) that is more or less the foie gras of the sea. 3114 Beverly Blvd.; (213) 387-8498. Open Mon.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-3 a.m. Dinner for two, food only, about $60. Beer, wine, sake. Street parking. AE, MC, V.
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