Mixmasters

Around here, we call it street-level multiculturalism.

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Sep 30 1998

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Sushi Bar Golf

The menu at Sushi Bar Golf, printed in English and Hangul but not Japanese, is rich in teriyaki plates and mackerel dinners and such, but seems to emphasize the sashimi assortments known as Par, Birdie and Eagle, sort of glacial moraines sculpted out of shredded daikon, then salted with fish-marketfuls of fresh sliced flesh. The Birdie plate, though listed as an appetizer, is dinner enough for two. The sushi here is fine, hand rolls stuffed with strips of grilled salmon skin, rather overvinegared mackerel sushi, beefy tuna, piers of grilled sea eel. But nothing goes better with a brimming glass of soju than Golf's hwe dup bap, a superb version of Korea's great contribution to sushi, bits of impeccably fresh sashimi topped with vinegared slivers of cucumber, strips of toasted seaweed, black sesame seeds and a raw quail egg, which you toss at table with sweet bean sauce and a bowl of hot rice. Fore! 239 S. Vermont Ave.; (213) 387-1233. Open for lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$50. Full bar. Valet parking in rear. AE, MC,V.

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Oki Dog

5056 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90019

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Mid-Wilshire/ Hancock Park

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Shakas

2300 S. Garfield Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91754-7200

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel

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Sushi on Tap

Although the selection of fish is about half of what it might be at places like Nozawa and Iroha just down the street, and the chefs may be more skilled at soft-shoe than sushi - you are more likely to engage the guys behind the bar in conversations about Savion Glover than about the provenance of the freshwater eel - the seafood at Sushi on Tap is actually quite fresh, and the preparations unobjectionable. If, like the vast majority of the customers, you come with a group, sit at a table instead of the bar and order soba noodles, tempura and sushi assortments, you will probably leave happy - especially when the chefs leave the bar, careen about the stage area to the rhythms of a sweetened recording of Cole Porter's "Let's Do It," and collapse back behind the bar, giggling as you probably did after your eighth-grade talent show. 11056 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 985-2254. Open for lunch Tues.-Fri. noon-2:30 p.m. and for dinner nightly 5:30-10:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. till 11 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $16-$30. Beer and wine. Lot parking. AE, MC, V.