Consume Part I: Food

 

 

BEST RONALD-FREE McDONALD’S 1953 McDonald’s Museum & Retail Store.Just off the Santa Ana Freeway lies the place where Ray Kroc learned to run a hamburger stand and build the company that would take over the world. The "World’s Oldest McDonald’s" (still standing, that is) has operated since 1953 as a corporate franchise long scorned by the corporate mothership for such deviations as serving Shamrock Shakes in July. After years of prodding, the shuttered stand was restored, with the addition of a museum and retail store. Orwellian videos now play outside, and inside you can pick up cuff links, magnets and $90 plush dolls all featuring the likeness of Speedee, the company’s original hamburger-head mascot. 10297 Lakewood Blvd., Downey; (562) 622-9248. (Chris Nichols)

 

BEST SUBS, OR BEST WAY TO MEET A DROOLER IN GRIFFITH PARK  Santoro’s Submarine Sandwich Shop.Hidden away in a sleepy section of Burbank is this family-owned and -operated shop where the art of making a submarine sandwich is still alive. There’s nothing unusual about Santoro’s ingredients (freshly baked bread, select meats and cheeses, tomatoes, pickles and onions — and mayo and mustard for those who prefer a less traditional sub); if you’ve never eaten one, you won’t be expecting anything special. But after everything’s been topped off with a few drops of (secret) oil (not olive) and (secret) spices, you’ll wonder why you ever went anywhere else for a sub fix. Eat on the premises, or race down Buena Vista to Griffith Park and consume your prize in public. But be forewarned: Anyone who sees or smells will drool openly and beg for directions to Santoro’s. 1423 W. Burbank Blvd., Burbank; (818) 848-8888.(Pamela Wells)

 

 

 

EXCUSE ME, HAS ANYONE SEEN MY MOTHER’S SUSHI BAR? Jozu. In Japanese, jozumeans "excellent, well done," which describes both the décor and the cuisine at Jozu. Located at the former Tulip site, this isn’t your mother’s sushi bar. Owner Andy Nakano combines California ambiance with Japanese minimalism to create a refined but diner-friendly atmosphere. The high ceiling and open kitchen give an airy feel to the space, while the acoustics remain conducive to both dining and conversation, thanks to architect Margo Alofsin’s fine work. Artwork by Muramasa Kudo, Herb Ritts and Yuigi adorn the walls, but the real star is the menu: house-cured salmon with wasabi, sweet soy and pea tendril salad is one of Jozu’s specialties, and the grilled portobello mushroom with warmed asparagus, potato and caramelized garlic is another favorite. Pork, chicken, lamb and beef are also on the menu, so not-so-fish-friendly diners will also find Jozu more than palatable. 8360 Melrose Ave.; (213) 655-5600. (Sandra Ross)

 

 

 

BEST CLASSIC WESTSIDE MEXICAN RESTAURANT Paco’s. Two or three times a year, I get the telephone call that chills my spine and sends sharp pains jabbing deeply into my gut: "We’re all getting together to celebrate so-and-so’s birthday — at El Coyote!" Look, if you want to wait two hours in line for the privilege of drinking Exxon-approved margaritas and eating bland Mexican chow, it’s your right as an American to do so. But I have a better suggestion: For a similar financial outlay — and a substantially shorter wait — you can get much better food and drink at Paco’s. "But I like El Coyote’s atmosphere," you whine. No argument there, pal, but Paco’s is no slouch in that department, either. From the rusted diving suit that overlooks the main room to the conspicuous assortment of nautical gewgaws and a large central aquarium filled with miniature sharks, the place feels more like a festive junk shop than a restaurant, especially when various holidays demand added layers of colorful decoration. Lest you forget that it is a restaurant, however, there’s always someone near the door making fresh tortillas. You can get them wrapped around Paco’s amazingly overstuffed burritos, or on the side of the to-die-for fajita plates. I’ve never had a meal here that was anything less than really good; even if the back-of–Culver City location means a long drive for you, it’s more than worth the trek. 4141 Centinela Ave., Mar Vista; (310) 391-9616.(Dan Epstein)

 

 

 

MOST EMOTIONALLY DISTURBED CHICKEN-EATING STORY, AND THEN SOME Moishe’s Chicken Shawerma Sandwich.You will wait at Moishe’s, and no amount of arm flapping, mouth moving or money wagging will bring your eats any quicker. You’ll wait. The wait won’t really be long, it will only seem long — like the wait for anything you crave badly. And when your shawerma rises over the countertop and into your arms, wrapped like a little pudgy bundle of joy, it will be warm and good for you. When I got my chicken shawerma sandwich, I held it close to my heart and scurried away to eat and covet it. I loved my sandwich so much it nearly moved me to tears, and once I had stuffed every last tenderly marinated bite into my mouth, I breathed a blissful, bloated sigh of contentment. I looked to the table on my left to see if the other shawerma eaters shared my joy, and noticed that all four women there were Angie Dickinson. I pinched myself, but it was no dream. It was real and good and true. It was a holy vision. With a full belly and a lusty heart, I cried out, "I love this sandwich!" The Angies all agreed. Farmers Market, Stall 336, 6333 W. Third St.; (213) 936-4998.(Janet Ginsburg)