Profiles in Curry

I am curious - yellow.

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Sep 2 1998

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All India Cafe

39 S. Fair Oaks Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91105

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Pasadena and vicinity

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Kuala Lumpur Malaysian Restaurant

69 W. Green St.
Pasadena, CA 91105-2068

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Pasadena and vicinity

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Sudi Mampir
Among Sudi Mampir owner John Rijken's favorite West Javan dishes is the appetizer martabak, a crisp, crepelike thing stuffed with a savory minced-beef omelet, sliced into squares and served with a little dish of sweet-sour Indonesian pickled vegetables. You can order whatever fish you like, but what you will get will invariably be the house specialty, ikan pesmol, a whole marinated tilapia fish, deep-fried and smeared with a fragrant sweet-sour paste stained yellow with ground turmeric and dotted with hot green chiles. And whatever you order, you will be directed toward the fried rice or the bakmi goreng, a sweet, dark dish of fried noodles with chicken, smoky and lightly charred like the best Asian fried pasta, fragrant with garlic and spice. The house-made lontong - grainy rice cakes topped with an oily coconut-chicken curry, a lump of stewed beef and a deep-fried hard-boiled egg - are fresh and chewy, the best in town. 12728 Sherman Way, N. Hollywood; (818) 764-1892. Open Tues.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $12-$20. No alcohol. Takeout. Lot parking. D, MC, V.