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Sheltering Sky

Ken Frank and his opulent French cooking are gone, but FENIX at the Argyle Hotel still has its patio with a great city view in the background, the swimming pool and a row of concrete palm trees in the foreground - surely, this is one of the more astute and compact images of Southern California. The new chef is New Orleans-born Brandon Boudet, and he's cooking eclectic American with a Deep South flair - linguine with crayfish; marinated pork loin with basmati dirty rice; flattened poussin baked under a brick; and crab-stuffed monkfish. Argyle Hotel, 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 848-6677. Entrees $12-$23.

For sheer funk, I have a soft spot for FIDDLER'S BISTRO poolside patio, tables scattered around on a cement-paved pool area, with the blue pool winking - it's straight out of a noir thriller, and all the more amusing because this modest coffee shop has some delicious Mediterranean dishes, including grape leaves, oven roasted chicken and a Greek salad. Plaza Hotel, 6009 W. Third St.; (323) 931-8167. Meals about $11.

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Spago Beverly Hills

176 N. Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90212

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: Beverly Hills

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Michael's

1147 Third St.
Santa Monica, CA 90403

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: Santa Monica

Les Deux Cafes

1638 N. Las Palmas Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90028

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Hollywood

Chez Mimi

246 26th St.
Santa Monica, CA 90402

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Santa Monica

The Buffalo Club

1520 Olympic Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90403

Category: Music Venues

Region: Santa Monica

The Belvedere

9882 Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90212

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Beverly Hills

Barney Greengrass Restaurant

9570 Wilshire Blvd. 5th floor
Beverly Hills, CA 90212

Category: Restaurant > Deli

Region: Beverly Hills

Cafe Pinot

700 W. 5th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90071

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Downtown

Hollywood Canteen

1006 Seward St.
Los Angeles, CA 90038

Category: Music Venues

Region: Hollywood

Il Moro

11400 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064

Category: Restaurant > European

Region: West L.A.

The Little Door

8164 W. Third St.
Los Angeles, CA 90048

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: West Hollywood

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I have left out far more patios than I've included. There's Granita, of course, in Malibu, and Sofi on Third Street, and Ca' del Sole in North Hollywood, and Clearwater Cafe, and Twin Palms, and Merida in Pasadena, and . . . and . . . and . . . and many more, clearly, so that, for the next few months, until the inclement weather returns, there will be plenty of patios where the weather is God-given - as warm as summer's meant to be.

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