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The Other Continental Cuisine

El Pollo Inka

El Pollo Inka is definitely a big-city restaurant, its menu filled with the seafood dishes typical of Lima's industrial port suburb, Callao. You'll find big plates of ceviche here, fresh, raw fish marinated in lime juice and hotly spiced with pureed chiles, served with the typical accompaniments of potato, sweet potato and corn. The delicious jalea involves crisply fried whitefish fillets garnished with a sort of Peruvian pico de gallo, a citrusy chop of tomatoes and red onions. Sudado - "An Adventure of the Deep Sea!" it says on the menu - is a tomato-based seafood stew thick with shrimp and clams and tentacled things. The fish soup parihuela is close to the classic version, dark and pepper-hot as a superior Louisiana gumbo. 15400 Hawthorne Blvd., Lawndale; (310) 676-6665. 1425 W. Artesia Blvd., Gardena; (310) 516-7378. 23705 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance; (310) 373-0062. 11000 Pacific Coast Highway, Hermosa Beach; (310) 372-1433. Open daily for lunch and dinner (some close late on Fri. and Sat.). Dinner for two, food only, $10-$25. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, CB, DC, MC, V.

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Cafe Brasil

10831 Venice Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90034

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: West L.A.

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Cali Viejo

7363 Van Nuys Blvd.
Van Nuys, CA 91405

Category: Restaurant > Colombian

Region: San Fernando Valley

Restaurant Ecuatoriano El Caserio

309 N. Virgil Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90004-3623

Category: Restaurant > South American

Region: Mid-Wilshire/ Hancock Park

La Fonda Antioquena

4903 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029-3731

Category: Restaurant > Latin

Region: Hollywood

Carlito's Gardel

7963 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90046

Category: Restaurant > Argentine

Region: Hollywood

El Pollo Inka

15400 Hawthorne Blvd.
Lawndale, CA 90260

Category: Restaurant > Fast Food

Region: South Bay

Rincon Chileno (Chile)

4354 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029

Category: Restaurant > Chilean

Region: Hollywood

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Rincon Chileno

Congrio - a tasty, white-fleshed fish that tastes a little like halibut might taste if halibut had any flavor - is delicious fried in a light, crisp batter, looking like nothing so much as something off an oversize fish 'n' chips platter. Humitas, Chilean tamales, are terrific here, sweetly spiced, intensely corn-flavored, with the consistency of a steamed pudding. Steak, lomo, is thin, marinated and chewy in the South American tradition, and can come garnished with a fried egg or with a side of the wonderful, spice-fragrant yellow-bean stew porotos granados. Pastel de choclo, a pan-Andean favorite, is a sweet corn pudding that conceals a chicken leg at its core. But the restaurant's greatest specialty is the appetizer erizo matico, marinated giant sea urchin, the powerfully nutty iodine smack nearly tamed by the flavors of citrus and finely minced onion. 4354 Melrose Ave.; (213) 666-6075. Open Tues.-Sun. for lunch and dinner. Dinner for two, food only, $18-$32. Takeout. Parking around the corner on Heliotrope. ATM, AE, CB, D, DC, MC, V.

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