Creme Brulee

And the sweetness of selling out

A A A Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Feb 11 1998

But creme brulee is still with us. If you pay attention these days, you might run across chocolate creme brulee, pumpkin creme brulee, coffee, mango, citrus or coconut creme brulee, creme brulee tostadas and creme brulee napoleons, creme brulee with berries, creme brulee flavored with the goat's-milk caramel called cajeta. Creme brulee is, in one estimate, the third most popular syrup for flavored coffee. The Chez, a hotel restaurant south of Beverly Hills, includes on its breakfast menu something called "oatmeal brulee." A new creme brulee cookbook, containing 100 variations on the dish, just hit the stores this month.

I haven't eaten much creme brulee since Tulipe, with its excellent green-anise-flavored version, closed down a few years ago - the hot dessert in town now, after all, is either the Kaiserschnorren at Spago or the cardamom cake with blue cheese ice cream at Monrovia's Devon - but I nurture my rare cravings with the absolutely classic creme brulee served at Mimosa, the staggeringly intense version at Barfly and the chocolate-tinged version at Citrus.

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Mimosa

8009 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048-4503

Category: Restaurant > Bistro

Region: Melrose/ Beverly/ Fairfax

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In the late '90s, it seems, pure sensory overload may no longer be enough.

"Oh hell, I'll admit it," says Silverton. "I'm not proud of it, but I may have started the revisionist school of creme brulee with the trio of them in sake cups I came up with for Chinois, flavored with mint, ginger and orange, over little circles of cake. But I haven't made a creme brulee since I don't know when - I moved on to panna cotta years ago."

Recommended creme brulee: Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., (213)655-8895; Barfly, 755 N. La Cienega, (310)657-8787; Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, (213)857-0034.