Roscoe’s House of Chicken and Waffles
Piling chicken on waffles (or vice versa) may be a time-honored custom in Amer ican cooking — Thomas Jefferson brought a waffle iron back from France in the 1790s, and the combination popped up in cookbooks not long after that — but as far as I know, nobody has cleared up the mystery of exactly how you’re supposed to eat chicken and waffles together. Do you wrap the waffle around a chicken leg and chomp on the thing, watching carefully for bones, as if it were a pig-in-a-blanket? (They do at Roscoe’s!) Or should the waffle assume the essentially ornamental nature of the fried tortilla at the base of a tostada, or the more fundamental role of the bread supporting an open-face hot turkey sandwich? We may never know. 1514 N. Gower St., Hollywood; (213) 466-7453. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Other locations in L.A. and Pasadena. Lunch or dinner for two, food only, $9–$15. Beer and wine. Takeout. AE, D, MC, V.
39 S. Fair Oaks Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91105
Category: Restaurant > Indian
Region: Pasadena and vicinity
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1226 Centinela Ave.
Inglewood, CA 90302
Category: Restaurant > Caribbean
Region: Inglewood
Tay Ho serves the Stradivari of banh cuon, transparent, almost membranous noodles, with the slight, stretchy resilience of caul and a faint fine-cloth nubbiness that catches bits of the thin sauce you ladle from a dog-faced (Goofy, to be precise) carafe. Here you can get the banh cuon wrapped around ground, dried shrimp, or wrapped around a filling of crumbled pork sautéed with black pepper and tree-ear mushrooms. The combination plate includes both kinds of buon cuon, heaps of cucumber and bean sprouts, a shrimp-topped sweet-potato fritter and a shrimp cruller spiked with green beans. Order the banh cuon with thit nuong, and you’ll get sort of noodle burritos stuffed with sweet Vietnamese barbecued pork; order them with bi, and there’ll be a gritty julienne of stewed pork skin. Get it how you like it — but do get the banh cuon! 1039 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel; (818) 280-5207. Other location in Westminster. Open Tues.–Sun. 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Lunch for two, $7–$9. No alcohol. Takeout. Lot parking. Cash only.
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